Tremezzo, Lake Como

We knew that we would like the Lake Como area.
What's not to like? A million miles away from the fleshpots of Venice and Florence, a perfect location in the foothills of the Alps and a mild Mediterranean climate! No wonder Madonna, Ronaldhino, Versace and George Clooney were all sharing our little patch of heaven...

Our villa (above) was in Tremezzo, a small place about 10 kms from Como itself. It is best reached by boat- there is a constant stream of ferries on all parts of the lake day & night- but we punted on the local bus the first time. It proved to be the last. It was jam-packed with excited adolescents out from school early. It was the first week back and there was apparently a lot to talk about (and this is what Italians do best!) at top volume, while studiously ignoring the poor tourists perched precariously on the step clutching bags and cases.

With some gesturing and pantomime Italian, we made it in one piece. The trip was worth it: our villa was right on the lake, with a pool to ourselves, and was catching the late afternoon sun beautifully. It felt similar to Lake Wanaka in NZ in some ways, except that here the entire shoreline is inhabited and any spare land is covered in vines or olive groves. The lake is over 400 metres deep (as I kept informing the bride!) and at its lowest is below sea level. It's certainly an impressive stretch of water.


The Romans settled here (of course) and there is a local legend of a giant trireme built here which promptly sank, along with some treasure. It's still there, they say.

The other legend concerns Benito Mussolini, dictator of Italy, who met a sticky end here in 1945. More about him later...

The backdrop to the lakes are these very steep rocky mountains, impossibly studded with houses, shacks and even small villages in some cases! If you were looking to get out of touch for a while, I have a few suggestions for you. Look very closely at the above photo to see what I mean.


There is a new photo- opportunity round every corner here! Fortunately we were mostly on foot or on a slow ferry, so they didn't get wasted. The layers of hills receding into the distance will be a lasting image for me.


One one of our walks we found ourselves wandering through people's backyards, pushing their washing aside, getting a feel for the real Italy. I don't think we were lost, but it felt like it. We were certainly off the American tourist trail, which was a blessed relief. This shot is part of my new 'Framed' series- you have been warned!


On the same walk we got talking to an old bloke feeding the Swans at Lenno. He told us (with no English) about his life, his war injuries (shot in the leg, shoulder and arm) and his views on modern life (I think!) Then he turned to me, gave a little wink, and told me how Mussolini had been caught around here in 1945. (He was trying to flee to Switzerland with his mistress, but the partisans got him a few kms from his goal). He mimed shooting and stabbing motions, and spat on the ground. Was I talking to one of those involved? If only I could speak Italian....

Como: a little slice of heaven. 5 stars!

Next: Interlaken- REAL mountains!